This place is pronounced Canyon de Shay, and is unique among Federal parks in that it is located within the Navajo Reservation. The Park Service is in the process of turning management of camp grounds over to the tribe. Now, no fees are collected, even for camping. This will soon change.
We have now entered red rock country, which is scattered with towering sandstone monoliths, high mesas, and deep, sculpted canyons. The drive from Mesa Verde was quite beautiful, passing through mostly uninhabited high desert.
The trailer is parked at Cottonwood Campground, which has no water, electric, or sewer hookups. It is surprisingly nice, as it is paved, level, and has shade. For the first time on this trip, we are completely self-contained. There is a sign that states, “no peddling” at the campground entrance. Despite this, several Navajo make the rounds selling trinkets they have made. I purchased a piece of inscribed rock art from a man who said he is a sheepherder who lives in a cabin without running water or electricity. Sheepherding is a traditional occupation for the Navajo. The reservation looks much less prosperous than others we have driven through, and poverty is plainly evident.
This tribe has a very tragic history, thanks to the Spanish, other tribes, and later, the Americans. Conflicts with the Spanish and neighboring tribes over animals and land brought misery to these people. They attempted to hide in the deep, convoluted canyons here. Despite efforts to fortify their trails, the Spanish, the Ute Tribe, and the U.S. Military penetrated their defenses leaving death in their wake.
A U.S sponsored military campaign that can be called a holocaust took place in 1863 when Col. Kit Carson began a brutal scorched earth campaign against the Navajo. American troops entered the eastern end of Canyon de Chelly and pushed the Navajo toward the canyon mouth. Most of the Indians were captured or killed. Carson's forces later returned and destroyed the Navajo's remaining houses (called hogans), chopped down their orchards, and killed their sheep. Those who survived the ordeal were forced to march over 300 miles, called the Long Walk, to Fort Sumner in New Mexico. Scores died from hunger, thirst, and fatigue. Fort Sumner was a form of concentration camp in which the Navajo were held for the next five years. Finally, they were allowed to return to their native lands to rebuild their homes. They faced starvation when they found that their homes, crops, and sheep were destroyed. Eventually, a system of trading posts was established where the Navajo traded native crafts for food and other staples.
This dramatic canyon has been occupied by humans beginning in 2500 B.C.E. Seasonal rock shelters were constructed by nomadic groups through 200 B.C.E. These people were followed by the Basketmakers (200 B.C.E. - C.E. 750); the Puebloans (750 – 1300); the Hopi (1300 – 1600); and the Navajo (1700 – 1863). Navajo trading began after their resettlement of the canyon, and took place from 1868 – 1925.
We spent the afternoon today exploring the south side of the canyon, which has several overlooks where the ruins of distant cliff dwellings are visible. The locations they chose, very high up the canyon walls, look impossible to reach on foot. Nonetheless, they constructed adobe pueblos that must have required herculean effort to build. The canyon becomes deeper and more dramatic as you drive higher into the mountains. It becomes a sort of mini – Grand Canyon. The road ends at a spot overlooking an 800 foot high tower of sandstone known as Spider Rock. This imposing monolith holds great religious significance for the Navajo. We could see kivas that had been constructed on a ledge next to the spire.
About 500 Navajo continue to live in the canyon, raising sheep, crops, and living a traditional lifestyle. Their log hogans can be seen on the canyon floor, along with their fields. We also saw what appeared to be several herds of wild horses grazing contentedly on the abundant grass.
Tomorrow, we will go on a three hour jeep tour of the canyon with a Navajo guide.
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